Quetico Provincial Park and the Boundary Waters Area are two places that are very near and dear to my heart. I will be visiting Quetico in the middle of August and the BWCA and Moose Lake Area in September, and I plan to update this page with more information and stories about my trips when I get back. I also want to talk more here about my 1996 trip, which was one of the more memorable ones that my brother, Tim, and I have taken together. For now, these are my thoughts about Quetico.

Quetico Provincial Park

Stretching almost 1,800 square miles in western Ontario along the Minnesota-Canada border lies, in my opinion, the finest canoeing and wilderness area in North America. I am referring to Quetico Provincial Park.

Within its borders one can experience either a wilderness trip or semi-wilderness trip, depending upon how much time and effort one is willing to expend. You can take very easy canoe routes with little or no portaging, see lots of people, and have a very good time. Or, if you're feeling gnarly, you can tackle extremely difficult routes with killer portages (1-1/2 to 2 miles uphill through mud, slippery rocks and more mosquitos and black flies than there are stars in the night) and be as isolated as you would like.

My brother, Tim, and I fall somewhere in the middle of these two types of experiences. While you have heard the term "mountain men," Tim and I are more like "mountain guys." That is to say, we do enjoy creature comforts such as lightweight, rainproof tents, lightweight, warm sleeping bags, and not-so-lightweight poly bottles of Scotch.

With the invention of all the ultra-light camping gear, canoes, paddles, flashlights, and all the neat stuff backpackers have been using for years, you don't have to be a Daniel Boone to have a pleasant experience in this wilderness area.

Your outfitter, if you choose to use one, can provide you with all the specialized equipment at a very reasonable charge. As important as the equipment is the outfitter's ability to assist you in planning your trip route, providing accurate maps and marking scenes of interest, camping spots and the best areas for fishing. I have used over the past nine years Jim Clark with Canoe Canada Outfitters. He is located in Atikokan, Ontario and has access to all the northern entry points into Quetico. Jim is a super individual who actually canoes and camps with his family and is extremely knowledgeable about the entire area.

Canoe Canada's equipment, service and attention to detail is outstanding. You can show up at their outfitting headquarters with nothing but your clothes and toilet kit and they'll provide everything else.

You may have the impression that this sort of trip is easy and without potential problems. That is not true. After all, you will be in a wilderness situation subject to the following calamities:

1. Weather is extremely variable. Since you are surrounded by vast amounts of water, Quetico produces its own weather, i.e., it can rain for ten days in a row or snow in any month of the year. Excellent rain gear can make the difference in having a pleasant trip or a rotten experience. Even during the summer, rain gear can be useful in case the weather becomes cool and is invaluable in keeping the bugs off.

2. Wind can be a real bummer. It's possible to be wind-bound for up to a week on a large lake. For instance, Tim and I had the thrill of riding 2-1/2 foot rollers on Pickerel Lake for over three and a half hours. It can be a bit disconcerting to notice as you pass between the rollers there is a wall of water extending a foot and a half above the sides of your canoe. No sane person should be on a lake under these conditions. It is a testament to Tim's and my canoeing ability, as well as our obvious insanity, that we came through without any loss of limb or equipment.

3. Insects. Everyone hears stories about the number of mosquitoes and black flies one finds in the north country. Depending upon the time of year, early May to late July, these stories are not only true, but actually understated. You cannot imagine until you are camped in the park on a lovely early June evening and hear a sound like a million bumblebees buzzing in the bush just waiting for a warm-blooded creature such as yourself to venture out in the night. We have found that headnets, medium weight cotton gloves and well made rainpants and jackets do a pretty good job of preventing bites. Repellants also work, but have can have negative effects on your skin and clothing.

4. Getting lost. Even with expert trip routing and outstanding maps, getting lost the first few times you are in the park is inevitable. Trying to relate the scale of the map to the actual surroundings can be adventurous. On my first trip in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area (U.S. side), my partner and I managed to become lost approximately one mile from where the outfitter dropped us off. We spent two and a half hours paddling around looking for the entrance to Lake No. 1. If it hadn't been for other canoeists being in the area, I might still be there today. It is helpful to have a compass and know how to use it. Things change in the park. Portages may be re-cut, water levels may drop, meaning that channel the map shows between two islands may be bone dry. One needs to be philosophical about getting lost. It will happen. Remain calm. If you are still lost and it's around six p.m., find a place and camp for the night. Do not try to find your way in the dark. It is very dangerous and the mosquitoes may pick the flesh from your bones and all that will be found is your canoe floating on the lake and your skeleton in the bottom of the boat.

5. Wild creatures. The opportunity for seeing wildlife in the park is outstanding. Over the years, I have seen moose, beaver, otters, fishers (an animal that looks like a cross between a weasel and a small bear), ospreys, bald eagles, Canada Jays (looks like a big bluejay, will steal bacon off your plate if you're not careful), various rodents--squirrels, chipmunks, etc.--and, of course, bears. Bears can make life very interesting. There is a reason why your outfitter tells you to hang up your food pack.

   You see, since bears have figured out that canoes equal food, they love for you to camp in their park. If you camp on a well used campsite, take the time to look around for certain signs, like bear prints, trash, or bear dung. If you see any of those things, I would suggest camping somewhere else, unless you would like a late night visitor to your campsite to liven up your evening. Never, ever take food or toothpaste, cologne or anything with a strong odor into your tent. By doing so, you are laying out a welcome mat for our friend Mr. Bear. It's no fun to have a bruin rambling around your campsite at 2:00 in the morning looking for a snack. People will tell you, "no problem--just bang a few pots and pans or toss some small stones at the bear." Don't believe them. Bears that become used to people are not easily intimidated. They'll just look at you as you're banging your pan and wonder if there's any food in the pan.

   One year on Batchewaung Lake, Tim and I heard the screams and yells of campers as the "Batch Bear" made his rounds on the heavily used campsites in the northwest end of the lake. We were comfortably camped on an island in the middle of the lake. A bear could still visit us, but usually it's too much work for them when the pickings are much easier along the shoreline.

   Bears can be a hassle, but it's good to remember that, after all, we are the visitors to their home and it's important for us to be tolerant of their bearish behavior. Your outfitter will show you the proper way to hang your food so bears and other smaller creatures will not have access to it.

6. Food. One of the best regulations ever invented with regard to Quetico Provincial Park and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area is that non-burnable food or beverage containers are not permitted in either park. It is extremely rare that you ever see any cans or bottles strewn about the parks. This necessitates using freeze dried or dehydrated foods. Canoe Canada over the years has attempted in their menu to provide tasty, nutritious and easily prepared entrees. This has been a difficult task. Personally, I dislike these types of foods. Tim and I supplement our food pack with our personal favorites, which include beef jerky and usually some smoked lake trout or salmon, which we purchase from along the north shore of Lake Superior.

   We also have been proficient in catching enough fish to supplement our freeze dried entrees. It is important when preparing these entrees to follow a few important steps.

   • Do not believe the manufacturer when they tell you you can cook your food right in the bag. It is far better to place the food in one of the pots or pans provided in your cook kit and cook it in that manner. Also, it seems that if you add about 10% more water than the recipe indicates, it turns out better.

   • Don't be duped when making your selections from your outfitter into checking the box that says "Fish Dinner." This means you provide the fish and they provide the condiments, drinks, etc., for that meal. Some people overstate their fishing prowess. It is entirely possible that, because of weather conditions or your own ineptness as a fisherman, you may not catch any fish your entire trip. Go ahead and make sure you have picked entrees for all nights out and supplement your menu with fresh fish.

   • Always ask the outfitter to provide extra snacks. These are hard candy, chocolate, cookies, and other nourishing and easily prepared foods. After fighting the wind for six hours down Sturgeon Lake, sometimes you don't feel like taking an hour to prepare a meal. It is amazing what a little beef jerky and Oreo cookies will do to improve your attitude after a long day.

   • PLEASE take a stove and plenty of fuel. It is much easier to cook your dinner on a stove than trying to cook on an open fire, the reason being most people really do not know how to make a proper cook fire. Also, at any time, due to weather conditions, the authorities may institute a fire ban in the park. It is difficult to prepare any freeze dried food without a heat source.

7. Equipment. Your outfitter will provide you with all the camping equipment you will need. Usually included is a hatchet. Leave the hatchet at the outfitters and request a saw. A saw is much more efficient at cutting wood than a Boy Scout hatchet. I know this will be hard for many of you, since all American males seem to think they are experts with an axe, even though they may never have used one. Axes are very dangerous and since you are oftentimes at least a day and a half away from civilization, gashing a leg or losing a finger can present a real problem. Swallow your pride, be smart and use the saw. It will be razor sharp and cut any reasonable log needed for cooking or the evening fire.

8. Fishing. The chance to catching a smallmouth bass over four pounds is one of the reasons I enjoy canoeing in the park. The majority of people seem to just camp and canoe. If you love to fish, you can experience some of the finest freshwater fishing in North America. Here are a few tips I have learned over the years.

   Lures. My three favorite types of lures are deep running crank baits for trolling, floating minnow lures like Rebels and Rapalas, and jigs. I know it is heresy not to include large spoons, but I simply don't use them. I have caught many pike over ten pounds using topwater floating baits or trolling with deep running crank baits. My favorite lure is a three or four-inch Mr. Twister Curlytail in chartreuse or chartreuse metalflake. I take at least one dozen jig heads in 1/4 ounce to 1/2 ounce and seven or eight different colors for the tails.

   A small tackle box is more than adequate for trips lasting up to two weeks. On my first trip I took several tackle boxes which resembled luggage. I ended up using those three types of lures for the entire week. Just for insurance, I always throw in three or four Bluefox spinners, number 3 size, in colors of gold, chartreuse and orange.

   It is helpful to have a pair of hemostats or needlenose pliers for removing hooks from fish or your own flesh. With regard to hooking yourself, I have found if you bend the barbs down on all the hooks, it is much easier to remove them from you and the fish. On lures that have three sets of treble hooks, consider removing all but the hooks on the rear. I have found I lose very few fish and one set of hooks is easier to remove than three. It is important to practice catch and release; keep just enough for a fish dinner if you wish.

   A portable depth finder can be invaluable in locating the proper area to fish. Sometime later I may go into greater depth in how I fish these lakes. Your outfitter will be very helpful in marking specific points where the fishing is best. It has not been uncommon for Tim and I to catch over fifty bass in less than an hour at sunset near our camp. Early morning and just before dark seem to be the best times.

   A five and one-half to six foot spinning rod with six to eight pound line is adequate for most species in the park unless you are specifically fishing for trophy sized pike. In that case, a six foot stiff baitcasting rod with twelve to fifteen pound line and wire leaders is desirable. Take extra line or spools for your reel. I also recommend an extra reel in case you lose a lineguide like I did once while fishing in thirty feet of water on Twin Lakes.

The best part of taking a Quetico canoe trip is the beauty and feeling of accomplishment in doing something different from your normal life. Out in the bush it doesn't really matter how much money you make or how successful you are. What matters is can you be of good cheer when the weather is against you; can you start a fire or light a stove in the pouring rain; can you keep your cool after you have paddled around the same cove looking for a portage indicated on your map and know in your gut you are in the wrong cove? Can you appreciate the silence in the evening just after sundown when the wind dies and the water looks like glass and the sky and trees reflect upon it and it's difficult to tell where the sky begins or ends? Can you learn not to look at your watch to decide when to eat or sleep, but simply do those things when it feels like it's the right time?

These trips mean many things to many people, people who can articulate their feelings much better than I. But I know in my heart that a part of me remains in the water and rocks in Quetico. A writer who expresses the feelings I am speaking about better than any I have ever read is Sigurd F. Olsen. His books are available at the library. Because of reading his book Runes of the North I became interested in experiencing the bush in northern Minnesota and Canada.

Another good publication is the magazine Boundary Waters Journal, which lists many useful articles and stories about Quetico and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area.

If I close my eyes, I can hear the calling of the loons across Sunday Lake while I am dozing at our camp. I can smell the pine that floats on the wind and hear the lapping of the water against the rocks. It's nice to be able to feel these things any time I wish by simply thinking of them. Quetico calls to me in both my waking and sleeping mind. I simply cannot forget her, nor do I wish to. I hope that some of you may experience some of these same feelings, for they will remain with you all your life.